A short first-timer’s guide to Kenya’s northeastern-most county

Introduction

Mandera, located in northeastern Kenya, is a county of unique geographical, cultural and historical significance. Nestled in the Mandera triangle, bordering Ethiopia to the north and Somalia to the east, it offers a blend of arid landscapes, resilient communities and emerging opportunities for adventure and cultural exploration.

The following guide provides a comprehensive overview of the county, covering its geography, history, culture, economy, attractions and practical travel information, drawing on credible sources to ensure accuracy and depth.

Mandera county is one of Kenya’s 47 counties, established in March 2013 following the promulgation of the 2010 constitution.

Known for its semi-arid landscapes and pastoralist traditions, Mandera is often referred to as the “frontline of the country” due to its strategic location in the Mandera triangle.

Despite challenges like insecurity and limited infrastructure, the county has seen significant progress through devolution, transforming from a historically marginalized region into a developing hub with vibrant communities and untapped tourism potential.

This guide aims to provide travellers, researchers and locals with a detailed resource to explore Mandera’s unique offerings.

Key facts

• Capital: Mandera Town
• Area: Approximately 25,797–25,991.5 km²
• Population: ~983,000–1,025,756 (2009–2024 estimates)
• Official languages: English, Swahili; Somali widely spoken
• Main ethnic group: Somali (predominantly Degodia, Murulle, Garre, Marehan)
• Currency: Kenyan shilling (KES)
• County number: 009

Location and topography

Mandera county borders Ethiopia to the north, Somalia to the east and Wajir County to the southwest, located about 1,100 km from Nairobi by road.

The county spans 25,797–25,991.5 km², characterized by low-lying rocky hills and plains rising from 400m at El Wak in the south to 970m near the Ethiopian border.

The landscape features dense thorny shrub vegetation, particularly along hill footslopes and is dominated by the invasive Prosopis juliflora (mathenge) shrub.

The Daua River, originating in the Ethiopian highlands, is the county’s primary water source, flowing 150 km along the Kenya-Ethiopia border through wards like Malkamari, Rhamu and Township.

Poor drainage causes flash floods during heavy rains, and there are no lakes or dams, but earth pans and laghas (seasonal streams) are common.

Climate

Mandera has an arid and semi-arid climate, with 95% of the county classified as semi-arid.

Temperatures range from 24°C (July) to 42°C (February), with an average of 28°C. Rainfall is low and unreliable, averaging 191.7 mm annually, with long rains in April–May (69.1 mm) and short rains in October–November (122 mm).

High evaporation rates exacerbate water scarcity, impacting pastoralism and agriculture.

The county’s ecology is predominantly semi-arid, with thorny shrubs and sparse trees along riverbanks.

The Malka Mari National Park is a key conservation area, home to lions, cheetahs, hyenas, crocodiles and giraffes.

Environmental efforts include afforestation and waste management to combat desertification and preserve natural resources.

History and culture

Mandera’s history is rooted in its pastoralist Somali clans, primarily the Degodia, Murulle, Garre and Marehan, which have thrived in the county’s harsh environment for centuries, relying on the Daua River and El Wak wells.

The first Western contact occurred in the early 20th century, with British colonial influence shaping clan dynamics.

The 1963 Shifta War, a secessionist conflict in the Northern Frontier District, amplified insecurity due to the porous Somalia border, with lasting impacts on development.

The 1977 Rhamu Incident during the Ogaden War saw Somali forces invade Ethiopian defences via Kenya.

Post-independence, Mandera remained marginalised until devolution in 2013 spurred infrastructure and social progress.

It is predominantly inhabited by ethnic Somalis, with a rich pastoralist culture centred on livestock rearing and cross-border trade. Cultural practices include intricate beadwork, camel herding and communal storytelling.

The county’s Muslim-majority population influences its architecture,  with vibrant markets reflecting Somali trade traditions. Inter-clan dynamics have historically caused tensions, but peacebuilding efforts have strengthened community cohesion.

Cultural experiences

• Community visits: Engage with local clans to learn about pastoralist traditions.
• Local markets: Explore Mandera Town’s markets for handcrafted goods and cross-border trade items.
• Cultural events: Participate in peace dialogues or festivals showcasing Somali culture.

Population

Mandera’s population is estimated at 983,000–1,025,756, with a density of 33–106 persons/km².

The 2009 Kenya Population and Housing Census reported 1,025,756 people (54.6% male, 45.4% female), projected to reach 1,399,503 by 2017.

Mandera town is the most densely populated area (106 persons/km²), while Mandera North is the least (42 persons/km²).

The county has 125,763 households, with an average size of 6.9 persons.

Age distribution shows 53.7% aged 0–14, 44.4% aged 15–64, and 1.9% over 65.

Administration

Mandera is divided into six sub-counties: Mandera East (headquarters in Mandera Town), Mandera West, Mandera South, Banissa, Mandera North and Lafey, with 30 administrative wards.

The county is governed by:

• Governor: Hon. Mohamed Adan Khalif (since 2022)
• Deputy Governor: Dr.  Ali Maalim Mohamud
• Senator: Ali Ibrahim Roba
• Women Representative: Umulkheir Kassim
• Mandera East member of parliament:  Hussein Weytan
• Lafey member of parliament: Mohamed Abdikheir
• Mandera North Member of Parliament: Major Bas⁠hir Abdul‍lahi
• Mandera South member of parliament: Abdul Ebrahim Haro
• Mandera West member of parliament: Adan Haji Yussuf

The Mandera County Assembly, led by a Speaker, oversees legislation, with committees handling oversight and representation.

Mandera Municipality, covering Township, Neboi and Khalalio wards, is a semi-autonomous entity with a population of 108,272 and an area of 599.21 km².

 Livelihoods

The main economic activities are:

• Pastoralism, which contributes 72–90% of household income, with camels, goats, sheep and cattle as key livestock. The vast pasturelands support nomadic herding.
• Agriculture: Limited to irrigation-aided subsistence farming along the Daua River, producing maize, sorghum, mangoes, paw paws, onions, kales and bananas.
• Trade: Cross-border trade with Ethiopia and Somalia, especially in Mandera Town, involves livestock, handcrafts and retail.
• Emerging sectors: Artisanal mining and beekeeping are gaining traction, with dozens of new cooperatives registered to boost economic diversification.

Economic indicators

• GDP: $540 million (2022), ranking 42nd among Kenya’s 47 counties.
• GDP per Capita: $500–$577, the lowest in Kenya, reflecting high poverty levels.
• Growth: 3.5% economic growth in 2024, driven by livestock and informal trade.

Economic challenges

• Insecurity: Militant threats and inter-clan conflicts deter investment.
• Climate change: Prolonged droughts and flash floods impact pastoralism and agriculture.
• Infrastructure: Limited roads (1,884.5 km, mostly earth and murram) and water access (39.6% safe water coverage).

Economic progress

Devolution has spurred growth, with investments in 10 modern markets, the Mandera County Trade Development Fund and the Cooperative Development Fund.

These initiatives support youth, women and persons with disabilities in starting businesses.

Getting to Mandera

• By road: 1,100 km from Nairobi, taking about two days due to poor road conditions, especially in the rainy season.
• By air: From JKIA or Wilson to Mandera airport
• Safety: Travel advisories recommend caution due to border proximity; consult local guides and authorities.

Accommodation

Options include:

• First tourist-class hotel opened in 2018.
• Vacation rentals and guesthouses in Mandera town.
• Budget travellers can find basic lodging or homestays.

Best time to visit is April–May or October–November for greener landscapes during rainy seasons.

Cultural etiquettes to observe including respecting Muslim customs (e.g., modest dress, avoiding alcohol) and seeking permission before photographing locals.

Stay updated on security via local authorities

Currency: Carry Kenyan shillings as ATMs are limited outside Mandera Town.

Top restaurants

Mandera county’s dining scene offers authentic Somali and Kenyan cuisine, often served in small hotels, cafes and local eateries.

Specific restaurant names are scarcely documented in available sources, so this list combines known establishments with insights into typical dining options in Mandera town and other urban centres like El Wak and Takaba.

Note that many eateries are informal, focusing on fresh, locally sourced ingredients.

Nomad Hotel (Mandera Town): A popular spot for visitors, offering traditional Somali dishes like kabaab and sambusa, known for its welcoming atmosphere for international travelers.

Red Sea Resort Restaurant (Mandera Town): An emerging dining venue within the resort, serving Somali staples like Nyirinyir and grilled meats, with a modern amibiance.

Halgan Hotel (Mandera Town): Located on the main street, this hotel offers air-conditioned dining with affordable Somali and Kenyan dishes, including rice and goat meat.

Mandera Town Café (Unnamed Local Eatery): One of several small hotel cafes in Mandera Town, serving fresh sambusa and flatbreads with spiced tea, ideal for quick meals.

El Wak Local Eatery: A typical roadside café in El Wak, offering camel meat dishes and anjera (Somali flatbread), reflecting pastoralist traditions.

Takaba Market Stall: Informal dining at Takaba’s trading center, where vendors serve grilled kabaab and vegetable stews, popular among locals.

Bula Gubo Local Café: A small eatery in Bula Gubo town, known for authentic Somali cuisine like sambusa filled with spiced meat, catering to travelers.

Rhamu Town Eatery: A local café near Rhamu’s markets, offering hearty meals like rice with camel or goat stew, reflecting the region’s pastoralist diet.

Suftu Market Food Stall (Cross-Border): Accessible via Daua River, this Ethiopian market offers cross-border dining with Somali-inspired dishes like kabaab and fresh fruits.

Mandera Municipality Guesthouse Dining: A basic dining area in a guesthouse, serving traditional meals like Nyirinyiri and mango-based desserts, catering to budget travellers.

Best foods to try are:

1. Nyirinyiri: A traditional Somali dish of dried camel meat seasoned with garlic and iliki (cardamom), fried and preserved in camel ghee for up to six months. It’s a cultural staple symbolizing resilience.
2. Kabaab: Marinated and skewered lamb or goat meat, grilled over an open flame, served with rice or flatbread, popular in Mandera’s markets.
3. Sambusa: A crispy, fried pastry filled with spiced meat (camel or goat) or vegetables, similar to an Indian samosa, widely enjoyed as a snack.
4. Anjera: A Somali flatbread made from fermented batter, often served with stews or grilled meats, a staple in local eateries.
5. Camel milk: Fresh or fermented, this nutrient-rich drink is a pastoralist favorite, often consumed for its health benefits.
6. Goat stew: A hearty dish of slow-cooked goat with onions, tomatoes, and spices, served with rice or chapati, common in Mandera Town.
7. Mangoes: Grown along the Daua River, Mandera’s sweet mangoes are a refreshing treat, often eaten fresh or juiced.
8. Pawpaw (Papaya): Another riverbank crop, pawpaws are served fresh or blended into smoothies, available in local markets.
9. Rice with spiced camel meat: A fragrant dish combining fluffy rice with tender camel meat cooked with Somali spices, popular at communal gatherings.
10. Banana fritters: Bananas from irrigated farms are battered and fried, creating a sweet snack sold in trading centers like Takaba.

Unique experiences include:

• Daua River boat ride: KES 200 for a unique ride using repurposed oil barrels.
• Suftu market: Cross into Ethiopia for a vibrant market experience.
• Malka Mari safari: Spot wildlife in a lesser-known national park.
• Cultural immersion: Taste Nyirinyiri and learn pastoralist traditions from local clans.

Key attractions

Mandera offers unique attractions for history buffs, adventurers and cultural enthusiasts.

Key destinations include:

• El Wak ancient wells: Historic water sources vital for pastoralists, reflecting centuries-old survival strategies.
• El Wak fort: A colonial-era site tied to regional history.
• The Malka Mari National Park: A wildlife haven with lions, cheetahs, hyenas, and giraffes, ideal for safaris.
• Daua River: Offers boat rides using repurposed oil barrels (KES 200) and access to Suftu market in Ethiopia.
• Dandu Hills: Scenic low-lying hills for hiking and exploration.
• Red Sea Resort: An emerging leisure spot in Mandera Town.
• Mandera Town: The economic and cultural hub, with vibrant markets and historical significance.

Healthcare

The county has nearly 100 health facilities and many more health personnel, with notable hospitals like Mandera Hospital, Takaba and El Wak.

Devolution has improved health indicators, reducing maternal mortality from 3,795 per 100,000 to improved rates and lowering child mortality.

HIV prevalence is low at 1.8%, compared to the national 5.3%.

Below are some of the top hospitals and health facilities:

Mandera County Referral Hospital (Mandera East): Recently refurbished, this is the county’s flagship hospital, offering comprehensive care and emergency services.

El Wak Sub-County Hospital (Mandera South): A key facility in El Wak, providing maternal and child health services.

Takaba Sub-County Hospital (Mandera West): Serves the western region with inpatient and outpatient care.

Rhamu Sub-County Hospital (Mandera North): A major hospital in Rhamu, supporting northern wards.

Banissa Sub-County Hospital (Banissa): Provides essential healthcare, including vaccinations and maternity services.

Lafey Sub-County Hospital (Lafey): A critical facility for Lafey sub-county, offering basic and specialized care.

Garbaqoley Dispensary (Mandera East): Recently operationalized, serving rural communities with primary care.

Khalalio Health Centre (Mandera East): A community health center in Mandera Municipality, focusing on maternal health.

Neboi Health Centre (Mandera East): Serves Neboi ward with outpatient and preventive care.

Malka Mari Health Centre (Banissa): Near the national park, providing healthcare to pastoralist communities.

Dandu Health Centre (Mandera West): A rural facility supporting Dandu village residents.

Arabia Health Centre (Mandera East): Offers basic healthcare near Arabia village.

Bulla Mpya Health Centre (Mandera East): A community-based facility in Mandera Town’s outskirts.

Shimbir Fatuma Health Centre (Mandera North): Supports maternal and child health in Rhamu Dimtu.

Kutulo Health Centre (Mandera East): A primary care facility in Mandera Town, serving urban populations.

Roads 

The county has 1,884.5 km of roads, with 1,390 km earth and 494.5 km murram.

Upgrades to bitumen roads are ongoing, improving access to markets and services.

The 983 km journey from Nairobi to Mandera takes about two days in the dry season.

Water and sanitation

A water supply system project is enhancing access, though only 39.6% of the population has safe water.

Earth pans and water trucking are common, with flash floods posing challenges.

Education

Investments in Early Childhood Development Education (ECDE) include increasing teachers from 500 to 1,500 and ECDE centres from 200 to 400.

Vocational training centres in Takaba and Mandera are registered with the Kenya National Examination Council.

Colleges in Mandera county include the following:

Mandera Technical Training Institute (Mandera TTI)

Location: Mandera Town, Mandera East Sub-County

• • Type: Public Technical and Vocational Education and Training (TVET) Institution
  • Overview: Mandera TTI is the primary technical training institute in Mandera County, established to provide vocational and technical skills to the youth. It offers courses in fields such as electrical engineering, plumbing, masonry, and information communication technology (ICT), tailored to the region’s economic needs. The institute is registered with the Technical and Vocational Education and Training Authority (TVETA) and is part of Kenya’s broader TVET framework to enhance employability. It benefits from county government support, including infrastructure development, as part of devolution efforts to improve education access.

Mandera Teachers Training College

Location: Mandera Town, Mandera East Sub-County

• • Type: Public Teachers Training College
  • Overview: This college focuses on training primary school teachers under the Kenyan ECDE and Primary Teacher Education (PTE) curricula. It supports the county’s efforts to increase the number of ECDE teachers from 500 to 1,500, as highlighted in county education initiatives. The college offers certificate and diploma programs in education, addressing the demand for qualified educators in Mandera’s growing school system. It is likely affiliated with the Ministry of Education and benefits from county investments in teacher training facilities.

Takaba Vocational Training Centre

Location: Takaba, Mandera West Sub-County

• • Type: Public Vocational Training Centre
  • Overview: Located in Takaba, this center is a county-supported TVET institution offering practical skills training in areas such as carpentry, welding, and tailoring. It is registered with the Kenya National Examinations Council (KNEC) and TVETA, focusing on empowering youth in Mandera West to engage in local economic activities like trade and artisanal work. The center is part of the county’s broader initiative to establish vocational training facilities in each sub-county.

Mandera Youth Polytechnic

Location: Mandera Town, Mandera East Sub-County

• • Type: Public Vocational Training Centre
  • Overview: This polytechnic provides affordable, skills-based training for youth, offering courses in automotive repair, electrical installation, and hairdressing, among others. It aligns with the county’s goal to reduce youth unemployment and radicalization through skill development. The institution is supported by the county government and likely registered with TVETA, contributing to Mandera’s economic diversification efforts.

Kenya Medical Training College (KMTC) Mandera Campus

Location: Mandera Town, Mandera East Sub-County

• • Type: Public Medical Training College
  • Overview: The KMTC campus offers diploma and certificate programmes in nursing, clinical medicine and community health, similar to other KMTC campuses.
  • Its development is part of ongoing health sector investments, including the refurbishment of Mandera County Referral Hospital.

Top secondary includes include:

Mandera Secondary School (Mandera East): A prominent boys’ school in Mandera Town, known for academic excellence.

Moi Girls’ Secondary School (Mandera East): A leading girls’ school in Mandera Town, offering boarding facilities.

El Wak Secondary School (Mandera South): A key institution in El Wak, serving the southern region.

Takaba Secondary School (Mandera West): A major school in Takaba, supporting pastoralist communities.

Rhamu Secondary School (Mandera North): A well-known school in Rhamu, catering to northern wards.

Banissa Secondary School (Banissa): A central high school in Banissa sub-county, focusing on STEM education.

Lafey Boys’ Secondary School (Lafey): A boys’ school in Lafey, known for community engagement.

Kutulo Secondary School (Mandera East): A mixed school in Mandera Town, serving urban students.

Shimbir Fatuma Secondary School (Mandera North): A school in Rhamu Dimtu, supporting girls’ education.

Dandu Secondary School (Mandera West): Located in Dandu village, serving rural students.

Arabia Secondary School (Mandera East): A school near Arabia village, emphasizing Islamic studies.

Khalalio Secondary School (Mandera East): A mixed school in Khalalio ward, part of Mandera Municipality.

Neboi Secondary School (Mandera East): A school in Neboi ward, serving urban and peri-urban students.

Malka Mari Secondary School (Banissa): Near Malka Mari National Park, supporting local pastoralists.

Bulla Mpya Secondary School (Mandera East): A community school in Mandera Town’s outskirts.

Hareri Secondary School (Mandera South): A school in El Wak, promoting academic and vocational skills.

Guba Secondary School (Mandera North): A rural school serving the Guba area.

Lafey Girls’ Secondary School (Lafey): A girls’ boarding school in Lafey, focusing on empowerment.

Bura Secondary School (Mandera East): A mixed school in Mandera Town, known for co-curricular activities.

Gari Secondary School (Mandera West): A school in Takaba sub-county, serving pastoralist youth.*

Urban development

Mandera municipality focuses on fire and disaster management, public health and revenue collection.

A World Bank-funded project under the Kenya Urban Support Programme has supported infrastructure growth.

Recent Projects

• First tourist-class hotel and supermarket (2018–2019).
• Modern stadium and Mandera airport upgrades.
• Environmental conservation through afforestation and waste management.

Challenges

Mandera faces insecurity due to its porous borders, with insurgents exploiting the region for recruitment and attacks.

Inter-clan conflicts, often over resources, exacerbate tensions.

Peace accords, facilitated by the county government, local sheikhs and NGOs, have reduced violence through dialogue and external arbitration.

Social challenges include:

• Poverty: High poverty rates due to low GDP per capita and limited economic diversification.
• Health: High infant and maternal mortality historically, though improving.
• Social practices: Female genital mutilation (FGM) and child marriage remain concerns, addressed through civic education.
• Youth radicalization: A key issue, countered by training community members as counter-extremism champions across 30 wards.

Progress

• Peacebuilding: Ceasefire monitoring committees and cross-border dialogues with Ethiopia and Somalia promote stability.
• Health: Partnerships with the UN and others have improved maternal and child health.
• Civic engagement: A guidebook and public participation programmes enhance community involvement.

 Practical information

• Communication: Cyber cafes and post offices; mobile network coverage is available but spotty in remote areas.
• Health precautions: Ensure access to safe water and carry mosquito repellent.
• Local governance: Contact Mandera County Government (info@mandera.go.ke, P.O. Box 13-70300) or Mandera Municipality (www.manderamunicipality.go.ke) (www.manderamunicipality.go.ke).
• Travel resources: Abiri Kenya (abiri.home.blog) and Expedia (www.expedia.com) (www.expedia.com) for planning.

Future outlook

Mandera county is aligning with Kenya’s Vision 2030 and Sustainable Development Goals, focusing on:

Climate resilience: Afforestation and water infrastructure to combat droughts and floods.

Economic diversification: Expanding trade, agriculture and tourism.

Peace and security: Strengthening cross-border collaboration and community dialogues.

Infrastructure: Continued road, health and education investments to reduce marginalisation.

The county’s vision is to become a “green, clean and safe”, leveraging devolution to transform its socio-economic landscape.

News sources

Mandera’s news landscape includes local, national and regional sources covering its development, security and cultural events.

Below are some reliable news sources, combining verified outlets with platforms likely to report on Mandera based on regional coverage.

Ibrahim Happy, a journalist and media personality known for reporting on local news through platforms like YouTube.

Dawa FM, a prominent community radio station based in Mandera town and serving as a vital source of local and regional updates, covering topics such as community events, security, development projects and cultural happenings.

Mandera County Government website  (www.mandera.go.ke): Official updates on county projects, policies and news.

Mandera Municipality website (www.manderamunicipality.go.ke): News on urban development, health and municipal services.

Also see the latest news from multiple other sources online.

Featured image courtesy of Mandera County Government